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Phnom Penh for women travelling alone

Royal Palace, a long riverfront, and more grit than Siem Reap

Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Marcin Konsek / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Budget
$30 a day
On foot
somewhat walkable
Getting around
Good
Best months
November to February
First solo trip
Some experience helps
Wifi
Good
English
Expensive
Places to stay
8+ read

01 of 10

The read

Phnom Penh rewards the women who stay long enough to feel it properly, and most do.

What holds up

  • English is widely spoken in BKK1, the Riverside, and all tourist-facing businesses.
  • PassApp and Grab, the two ride-hailing apps that work like Uber, put a tuk-tuk or car at your door within minutes, fares shown upfront.
  • BKK1 is a flat, walkable grid with cafes and restaurants dense enough that you rarely need to go far.

What to weigh

  • Phnom Penh now receives flights at Techo International Airport, about 19 kilometres south of the city centre, so factor in a longer transfer than older guides describe.
  • Bag snatching from passing motorbikes is the one consistent risk: keep bags on your lap or between your feet in open tuk-tuks, and keep phones out of sight when walking.

Phnom Penh has more grit and energy than Siem Reap. The capital sits at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers, with a long riverfront promenade that fills with joggers and food vendors in the evenings. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda are the main cultural sights, and they can be covered in a morning.

The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung Ek Killing Fields are difficult but important visits for understanding Cambodia's history. Budget a full morning for both, and consider going with a guide for context. The Russian Market (Toul Tom Poung) and Central Market are good for browsing, with the Russian Market better for souvenirs and street food.

Solo women will find Phnom Penh manageable with some street awareness. The BKK1 (Boeung Keng Kang) neighbourhood is the expat hub with international restaurants, cafes, and a walkable grid of streets. Grab and PassApp (a local rideshare) work well. The city is noisier and more chaotic than Siem Reap, but the food scene is better, and the Bassac Lane bar area in BKK1 is a comfortable spot for solo evening drinks.

02 of 10

Who this suits

Phnom Penh rewards travellers who can sit with difficult history and are genuinely curious about a place still in the process of recovery. It is not a beach holiday or a nightlife destination; it is a city that asks something of you and gives a lot back.

03 of 10

Common questions

What people ask about Phnom Penh, answered with specifics rather than in general terms.

Can I get around Phnom Penh without speaking Khmer?
Yes. Grab and PassApp work entirely in English. Most guesthouse and restaurant staff in tourist areas speak enough English for practical communication. Outside those areas, pointing and a translation app covers most situations.
How do I dress for visiting temples and the Royal Palace?
Shoulders and knees must be covered at the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and most wats. A light scarf or sarong packed in your bag solves this. Sarongs are also available to borrow at the Royal Palace entrance.
Is it worth spending more than two days in Phnom Penh?
Three days is a better baseline if you want to visit both Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek without rushing, see the National Museum and Royal Palace, and spend time in a neighbourhood rather than just on the tourist strip. Two days works if you are passing through to Siem Reap or the coast.
What do I need to know before visiting Tuol Sleng?
Photography is permitted in most areas of the museum. The site preserves the original cells and structures, which is confronting. The audio guide adds context and is worth renting. Some travellers find they need to step outside and take breaks. There is no café on site.
What currency do I need?
US dollars are widely accepted and most ATMs dispense them. Cambodian riel is used for amounts under a dollar. Keep small denomination dollar bills for markets, tuk-tuks, and street food where change in riel is common.
How do I get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap?
Giant Ibis is the most reliable bus company and the buses are comfortable with air conditioning and wifi. The trip takes around six hours. There are also flights on Cambodia Angkor Air and other regional carriers, which take under an hour.

04 of 10

Where to stay

Each of these has been read rather than listed. The full set is on the stays page.

Every place to stay in Phnom Penh

05 of 10

What to know

  1. 01

    BKK1 is the solo traveller hub

    Boeung Keng Kang 1 has the highest concentration of cafes, coworking spaces, and restaurants where you'll meet other solo travellers. Most guesthouses here are within walking distance of everything.

  2. 02

    The riverfront is social at dusk

    From about 5pm, the Tonle Sap riverfront fills with locals and travellers. It's well-lit and populated. The stretch between the Royal Palace and Night Market is the most active.

  3. 03

    Tuol Sleng and Killing Fields are intense

    Most visitors find these emotionally heavy. Going with an audio guide helps process it. Many solo travellers visit in the morning and spend the afternoon at a quiet cafe afterward.

  4. 04

    Street food is concentrated in specific spots

    The Central Market food stalls and Russian Market food court are the best places to try Cambodian street food with clear options visible. Night market food stalls along the river operate on weekends.

06 of 10

Getting around

  1. 01

    PassApp is the local ride-hail

    PassApp is more widely used than Grab in Phnom Penh. It has tuk-tuks, cars, and motorbikes. Fares are shown upfront. Most locals use it daily.

  2. 02

    Grab also works

    Grab operates here with similar coverage. Having both apps gives you more options during peak times.

  3. 03

    Walking in BKK1 is fine

    The BKK1 neighbourhood is walkable block by block. Pavements are often occupied by parked motos, so you end up walking on the road edge. Cross streets with confidence and steady pace.

  4. 04

    Motorbike taxis for speed

    PassApp and Grab both offer motorbike options. Faster through traffic but helmets are not always provided. Ask for one if it matters to you.

07 of 10

How the day runs

morning · 5am-12pm

Riverside, markets, cafes

The riverfront fills with locals exercising from 5am. Central Market opens early. BKK1 cafes start serving specialty coffee by 7am. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda are best visited before 10am when tour groups arrive.

afternoon · 12pm-5pm

Museums, coworking, rest

The Tuol Sleng Museum and Killing Fields are afternoon visits that most travellers do once. BKK1 has several air-conditioned coworking cafes. The Russian Market is covered and bearable even in heat.

evening · 5pm-late

Rooftops, riverside, dining

Sunset drinks on rooftop bars along the river are a thing. Street 308 and the surrounding blocks in BKK1 have a dense cluster of restaurants. The Night Market near the river operates on weekends.

08 of 10

What to eat

  1. 01

    Kuy Teav

    Pork and prawn rice noodle soup with a clear, lightly sweet broth. Phnom Penh's breakfast of choice, served with lime and chili.

    Kuy Teav Koah Pich on Street 63. Also any busy noodle stall near the Central Market in the morning.

  2. 02

    Bai Sach Chrouk

    Thinly sliced pork marinated in garlic and coconut milk, grilled over charcoal, and served with broken rice and pickled vegetables.

    Street stalls along the riverside, and near Wat Phnom. Best before 8am.

  3. 03

    Kampot Pepper Crab

    Whole crab stir-fried with fresh Kampot peppercorns (green, still on the vine). Briny, spicy, and distinctly Cambodian.

    Malis Restaurant on Norodom Boulevard, or the Kep-style crab places near the Russian Market.

  4. 04

    Num Pang

    Cambodia's take on the baguette sandwich, filled with pate, sardines or pork, pickled papaya, and chili. French-colonial street food.

    Street vendors around the Central Market and Old Market areas. Grab one for a few thousand riel.

09 of 10

Neighbourhoods

  1. 01

    Riverside (Sisowath Quay)

    The wide promenade along the Tonle Sap River has the most foot traffic in the city at all hours. Street lighting is consistent along the quay, and the mix of locals, expats, and tourists keeps the area active until late.

    Best for First nights in the city, watching the river at sunset, and easy access to restaurants and guesthouses on a single strip.
  2. 02

    BKK1 (Boeung Keng Kang 1)

    This is where most of Phnom Penh's expat infrastructure concentrates: international restaurants, specialty coffee shops, co-working spaces, and well-maintained pavements. Streets are well-lit and there is consistent foot traffic through the evening.

    Best for Longer stays where you want a quieter base with grocery stores, good cafes, and reliable Grab pickup.
  3. 03

    Daun Penh

    The oldest district in the city, home to the Royal Palace, National Museum, and the densest concentration of colonial-era buildings. Streets here vary from wide and lit to narrow and uneven.

    Best for Sightseeing during the day and understanding the city's layout before venturing further.
  4. 04

    Russian Market area (Toul Tom Poung)

    Named for the market at its centre, this neighbourhood has a local residential feel with good street food and independent shops. Quieter at night than BKK1, with narrower streets and fewer lit intersections after dark.

    Best for Afternoon market browsing, local lunch spots, and buying silk, clothing, and craft items.
  5. 05

    Tonle Bassac

    A fast-developing district south of BKK1, with newer hotels, rooftop bars, and some of the city's better mid-range and upscale restaurants. Pavements are more consistent here than in older districts.

    Best for Travellers who want newer infrastructure and quieter streets away from the tourist centre.

10 of 10

Local knowledge

The operational detail that is obvious once you are there and impossible to guess before.

  • Street numbers in Phnom Penh can be confusing because odd and even numbers often run on the same side of a block. Use landmarks when giving Grab drivers an address.
  • The riverside promenade fills with local families exercising and eating in the early evening. It is one of the most pleasant times to walk along Sisowath Quay.
  • Khmer Rouge documentation centers sometimes have free public screenings of documentaries. Check the DC-Cam website before you visit.
  • Bottled water is standard everywhere but refill stations exist in most guesthouses and some cafes. Bring a reusable bottle.
  • Most ATMs in Phnom Penh dispense US dollars. Riel is used for small change. Carrying small bills in both currencies is useful for markets and street food.
  • The Russian Market is quieter and cooler before 9am. The best textiles and fixed-price shops are on the interior ring, not the main entrance stalls.
  • Grab surge pricing activates during heavy afternoon rain. If you can wait twenty minutes after a downpour, prices drop back to normal.